There's really no rules when it comes to mapping out a wispy set. The more sporadic, textured and "messy" - the better! Wispy sets give you the freedom to be creative and use as many different lengths, curls and diameters as possible!
You can use premade spikes or closed handmade fans as the"spike" throughout the set to create different textures and heights. You can also use premade, promade or wispy lashes in longer lengths to create the "spike" - again, there's no right or wrong.
Here's 3 of the BEST & EASIEST ways to map out a wispy set (imo):
The first one is lashing in ratios. The concept is very similar to how you would map out a hyrbid set! It requires you to place down the "spike" on every 3rd lash. You'll then fill the remaining lashes with shorter and thinner fans (premades, wispys or promades).
So essentially, you'll do 1 spike for every 3 fans. The ratio may change depending on the quantity of NL you're working with. For example, if the client has little to no lashes - you'll pop a spike down on every 5th lash instead. This mapping technique creates a super subtle, yet textured wispy set!
The next mapping application style is lashing in sections. This one can get a little tricky and confusing to visualise but once you get the hang of it - it'll become your GO-TO.
The idea is similar to that of the lashing in ratios technique, however instead of applying just one spike down, you'll apply 3 - 4 in each section instead. Again, you can use closed handmade fans, handmades, wispy promades, promades, premades or spikes - just note, each one will create a different result!
Simply place down the 3 - 4 "spikes" in each section, as evenly distributed as possible.
Then fill the remaining natural lashes with the shorter, thinner fans. The sections create "gaps" in the lash line with create negative space within the lash line that forms noticeable height differences. This one is perfect for the old school strip lash set!
The last technique we love to use is fairly new to the industry! It requires you to lash in layers - meaning you'll lash the top and bottom layers separately! This technique also comes in handy for for those struggling to lash every lash!
Apply the lash pads as per normal, and apply another pair directly over the lashes. Use your tweezers to gently scoop out the top layer of lashes and fill with "spikes". Then remove the top lash pad to expose all remaining lashes and fill with the smaller, thinner fans as per normal. That's it! Super quick and easy to do, plus creates the most beautiful wispy sets.
So just like how every eye shape and face shape will give you a different result - the same goes with mapping techniques and lashes. If you use spikes, it'll look different to when you use handmade fans or vice versa. But it's not a bad thing! Thats why it's so fun - there's so many options and ways to create the wispy sets. Keep trying different techniques, lengths, diameters, curls, volumes and materials until you find what works for you! You don't always have to follow the book - but either way, we hope this helped!
We'll be posting some wispy lash mapping videos over on TIKTOK and Instagram, so make sure you follow to see more!
As always,
love gtb xx
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