MAPPING DOWN TURNED EYES

How do we determine who has a down turned eye? The easiest way to see if your client has a down turned eye is by taking a photo of their face front on (or get them to send in a picture prior to the appointment) and draw a line from inner corner to outter corner. If the line is perfectly horizontal, from inner corner to outer corner - it's an almond or round eye. However, if there is a slight gap from the line and the outer corner, they have a down turned eye (and/or an upturned eye - but that's for another blog)

Once you do this a few times, for all eye shapes - you'll be able to visualise it without having to take a photo and draw out the line. I now walk around playing "guess the eye shape" on random civilians  everywhere I go, it becomes a fun little hidden talent lol!

So now that you've established the eye shape, it's time to determine their brow structure and lid spacing. This is VERY important! Most people with downturned eyes have less lid space on the outer corner than they do the inner! You'll also find the brow bone tends to be lower down - again due to their face structure and lid space. If you went too long on the outer corners, it would cover the entire lid space and touch the brow bone, which ultimate will reverse the effect we're trying to achieve.

Based off the photo you have (or by visually seeing it in person) you'll be able to determine where the natural lash sits and how far up the lid it goes. If their natural length was a 13mm and was close to touching the brow bone already, you wouldn't want to go any bigger!

Little tip: You can always measure the natural length of the lash to double check by placing down a classic or volume fan (no adhesive) on the natural lash.

Ok, now on to mapping - the reason you're all here. I personally don't like to go too heavy on the outer corners on those with downturned eyes. The sole purpose for that is - the thicker the lash, the more it droops! By putting down heavy volumes like 6D - 10Ds+ or lengths like 15mm - you'll further enhance their eye shape, making it appear even more droopy than before! Again, it's a trial and error thing - you won't get it right the first time, ever.

Now with saying that, I do like to use a "thicker" volume on the outer corner, appose to using the same volume across the entire lash line. The reason for this is, we want to create the illusion that the outer corner is thicker and more lifted than the inner - giving it the up turned effect. What length and volume you use, will always be determined by the clients natural length, lash health and lash capacity. Say, if someone had lots of lashes on the inner and very little on the outer corner - that would close in the eye and again, reverse the effect - but again, that's for another blog sesh.

You want to use the "doll eye" for those with downturned eyes! This will help reverse the downturned effect and draw your attention to the inner and centre part of the eye and lid space, opposed to the droopy outer corner. Now, if your longest length is a 14mm (for example) then you'd want to start with a 12mm or 13mm on the outer 1/4. The shorter the outer corner is, the more "semi circle" or "curved" affect it'll give - this is something you'll need to discuss with your client and see what looks best.

Let's start with 13mm - you want to fill with this length until you start to see the eye "drop";. From there, you'll go up 1 milimeters in length (14mm) which would be your longest length. Continue to fill with the 14mm until you're just over or before half way (depending on their eye shape/lid space). You'll then evenly drop down in length until you reach the inner corner. This is the section you can also drop down in volume to help lighten the inner corners and lift the outer.

This mapping style is almost a doll eye x a natural sweep - where we have the shorter outer corners, but majority of the larger length takes up most of the space with a gradual decline in length and/or volume on the inner corners.

Again - this mapping style helps create the upturned illusion with the shorter and/or heavier lash line towards the outer corner as it gradually gets thinner and shorter towards the inner corner. Once you're done, you honestly won't even be able to tell they have a down turned eye, it just looks like an almond eye! LIFE CHANGING.

Here's an example of the downturned eye with a doll eye vs the natural sweep:

CAT EYE

DOLL EYE

You can always play around with the mapping style, lengths and volumes to figure out what works for both you and the client! It took me a while to get right, so don't be discouraged if it takes a few tries! My sister has down turned eyes and we go back and forth using the "natural sweep" and the "doll eye" - so the more you play around, the better. Sometimes we lack creativity and diversity and become stagnate - doing the same set on every eye shape. When in reality, we should be mapping to each individual eye! We'll get there.

But for now, that's all in today's lash lecture.

All my love, always,

Misteria xx